The Old Man from Japan

SATURDAY 4TH May – My time is done here for now. My Camino finishes in Burgos. But first I have to walk from the aubergue at San Juan de Ortega. That freezing dark medieval dungeon. I felt my relying on my body heat in my bed- liner and sleeping bag that I would never reheat … Read more

St John of the Nettle

It was almost 16km from Espinosa del Camino through Villafranca Montes de Oca, a quick stop for coffee and a pastry and then along the narrow main street dodging articulated trucks on the N-120 before climbing up behind the church to Fuente de Mojapán at 1,100 metres and then Monumento a los Caidos to 300 … Read more

No room at the Inn

Terrible night at the Colombian-family-run Villamayor Aubergue La Tienda in Villamaor del Rio.. I have narrowed it down to a bad pollo Empanada. Up a couple of times during the night vomiting. Not nice. Weak now for the inclined stride into a stiff westerly wind that has been blowing for days in the mid 20’S … Read more

From Rioja into Leon Castille

Another 25km stretch to Villamajor del Rio.Left Albergue Guadalupe in Cirueňa about 7.30pm. Breakfast at a modern boutique hotel in Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Onwards across arable rolling fields to Graňon. There was a  food truck at the entrance to the town with a meal special for €4 per person – cafe con leche,  … Read more

Stage Nine from hilltop to hilltop.

Long stretch today from the hill at Ventosa and the Albergue Santurnino to Cirueňa on the top of another hill. Cirueňa is like a ghost town. Apartment complexes in the middle of nowhere and many for sale sevende. Breakfast at the Buen Camino Hotel in Ventosa around 7am. Fried egg on lomo all on a … Read more


Alarm at 6.30am and out of the apartment in Logroňo by 7.15am. Breakfast at La Fontana and then a slog out of Lograňo on asphalt through modern apartment building complexes and parkland. Arrived at 10.45am arrived at Aubergue La Inglesia right beside the XVIthc Church of the Assumption. What sumptuous grand churches for such small … Read more

Lograňo Secundo

On Sunday, 28th April, Konstantine, Esther and  myself booked a five bed apartment (90 sq metres) at 10 Calle Gallicia for €70.Had breakfast at  La Fontana on Calle Portales.  Mina from Scotland had also stayed at the Santiago El Real Aubergue but did not have a place to stay. We offered her the pull out … Read more


Had a breakfast of Cafe con leche and croissant at he Aubergue San Andrés in Torres del Rio. Had a late start just after 8.00am and had a heavy shower over N.S. del Poyo. Rolling hills through vinyards and onto Viana which I reached Bar la Taberna and had a full glass, half pint of … Read more

Villamajor de Monjardin

Got a private room under the eaves in the attic of a medieval home below the ruins of St Stephen’s Castle in Villamajor de Monjardin Centro. A Dutch ecumenical group runs the Auberge and after the Pelegrino menu del dia (mixta salad and crispy lasagne ) there was an hour of reflective bilingual  meditation – … Read more

Through a Star Lightly.

Left Magical Auberge late around 9pm as I had to get clothes spun dry. Gentle walk downhill about 4 km to Estella. No place to get breakfast until a little satellite town out on a steep rise outside. Hips a bit tender carry the pack.Pleasant ramble through arboreal hollows and over little streams and final … Read more