Stage Nine from hilltop to hilltop.

Long stretch today from the hill at Ventosa and the Albergue Santurnino to Cirueňa on the top of another hill. Cirueňa is like a ghost town. Apartment complexes in the middle of nowhere and many for sale sevende. Breakfast at the Buen Camino Hotel in Ventosa around 7am. Fried egg on lomo all on a … Read more


Alarm at 6.30am and out of the apartment in Logroňo by 7.15am. Breakfast at La Fontana and then a slog out of Lograňo on asphalt through modern apartment building complexes and parkland. Arrived at 10.45am arrived at Aubergue La Inglesia right beside the XVIthc Church of the Assumption. What sumptuous grand churches for such small … Read more

Lograňo Secundo

On Sunday, 28th April, Konstantine, Esther and  myself booked a five bed apartment (90 sq metres) at 10 Calle Gallicia for €70.Had breakfast at  La Fontana on Calle Portales.  Mina from Scotland had also stayed at the Santiago El Real Aubergue but did not have a place to stay. We offered her the pull out … Read more


Had a breakfast of Cafe con leche and croissant at he Aubergue San Andrés in Torres del Rio. Had a late start just after 8.00am and had a heavy shower over N.S. del Poyo. Rolling hills through vinyards and onto Viana which I reached Bar la Taberna and had a full glass, half pint of … Read more

Villamajor de Monjardin

Got a private room under the eaves in the attic of a medieval home below the ruins of St Stephen’s Castle in Villamajor de Monjardin Centro. A Dutch ecumenical group runs the Auberge and after the Pelegrino menu del dia (mixta salad and crispy lasagne ) there was an hour of reflective bilingual  meditation – … Read more

Through a Star Lightly.

Left Magical Auberge late around 9pm as I had to get clothes spun dry. Gentle walk downhill about 4 km to Estella. No place to get breakfast until a little satellite town out on a steep rise outside. Hips a bit tender carry the pack.Pleasant ramble through arboreal hollows and over little streams and final … Read more

Fields of Poppies and Rape Seed

Left the Auberge Santiago Apostol around 5.20am in the dark. The Korean group started moving shortly after 5am with flashing lights and thundering  rolling luggage wheels and then they were gone long before dawn. We strode down the hill and turned right along the Arca River out past the nun’s monastry Comendadoras del Espiritu Santo. … Read more

Puete la Reine in the Rain

Persistent drizzle came in on a northerly wind. Therenwere 111vin my bedroom in the Jesus y Maria Aubergue in PamplonaKim from Korea was on the top bunk over me. He had heard of Hemingway but had not read him.  One clown  rose at 5am and started straffing his light around the dormitory. It rained and … Read more

Casa Paderborn is a smal Aubergue run by German volunteers. I reached this quaint old hostel on the banks of the Rio Arca after the trek from Zubiri. It was my third day and third stage. I was tired but no aches. Usually the third day is the wall of fatigue regardless of the stage’s … Read more

Zubiri Through Paleogene Karst

Walked 15.3 kilometres from the Albergue in Epinal to Zubiri. A relatively short stage and I reached Albergue Ezpeleku at about 2.30pm. It was €14 for the night just for a bed. The last few kilometres were very steep down along exposed limstone strata and rubble. You had to keep concentrated and there was strain … Read more