Terrible night at the Colombian-family-run Villamayor Aubergue La Tienda in Villamaor del Rio.. I have narrowed it down to a bad pollo Empanada. Up a couple of times during the night vomiting. Not nice. Weak now for the inclined stride into a stiff westerly wind that has been blowing for days in the mid 20’S Kmph. And wnen it is 3 to 5 degrees It cuts you like a knife when you come over the brown
of each rolling hill.
It was drugery walking early to Belorado (3,100) in the crisp sunlight behind my back from the east. A boring rail alongside the busy N-120 from Logroňo to Burgos. Passed one sign showing 47km to Burgos and the next 49km. Not sure where Spain acquired these “Irish” signs. I stopped into an Albergue cum restaurant as I entered Belorado and all I could take was a fanta, no food. Tummy a bit tender still. Pressed on to reduce kilometres before the climb past Villafranca Montes de Oca. The snow capped peaks of the Sieera de la Demanda are to the south. I learned in the Museo de la Rioja in Logroňes that copper was mined there in the Roman period. Reached Tosantos anout 5 kilometres out the road and had a black tea as coffee too heavy on the stomach. Did not even enquire about lodging as I felt there was just about enough more to press on another 2 km to Villambistia. All these small villages are pretty much deserted, shuttered and sevende signs a plenty and the reception quite abrupt from Spanish aubergue proprietors who have their beds filled. I found that foeign missions like the Dutch in Villamayor de Monjardín and the German pension in Pamplona will try to find you a place even if they are full.
Anyway the San Roque aubergue was closed for May’day and today the 2nd. Los Doseos was closed and when the lady came to the door to hand over wheely cases for forwarding she told us in an unsypathetic way that if we did not have a reservado then there was no bed. What has happened to the Camino spirit. A victim of its success. No choice but to barrel on to Espinosa del Camino. The old lady at Las Almas seemed irritated by the enquiry which cane to nothing. La Cantina is under new management and lease from the Ayntamento. They said that papers has not come through for them to accept peregrinos but when they saw how tired we were the man in charge took poty and allowed us to be the first peregrinos to stay in his newly renovated auberge. Hooray! The family is very nice and welcoming. They prepared a hot broth with rice. They lived in Arlington, Virginia for about 10 years working at the Spanish embassy.
I slept on a bunk for two hours, just flaked out. The family left to return at 7.30pm and cook some food. Population od this small village with its medieval church is around 40 and shortly after evening opening probably a quarter of the inhabitants were at the bar in the Taverna.
Tomorow it is 3.5km to Villafranca and across the shoukder of Fuente de Mojapán above 1,100m and hen down to the arroyo Peroja and a climb again to Alto Pedraja.
The last three aubergues where I stayed had NO heating in the rooms. It is so hard to stay warm and stop your core temperature from falling. Shower was hot though and descent pressure.
